Upgraded Fuel System in 98 Eclipse GSX

This page included pictures and descriptions of my fuel system upgrade in my 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

Notes Below.....

To get to the fuel pump assembly you need to pull up the back seats. Pull the tabs and lift.	Here is the cover for the fuel pump assembly.	Before you start playing with the wires, disconnect the battery.	To make life easier on yourself, you might as well pull the battery too.
Here is the stock fuel filter which you will also need to remove.	Here is the fuel pump assembly with the cover removed and the wire connector disconnected.	If you look down towards the ground, you will see the hose connector you will need to remove. It is easier to get from underneath the car.	This is another view.
This is the view from under the car. The tube connector is a 14mm. It is on there tight... really tight.	Once you have gotten the lower connector disconnected, you can get the top one. I had to use a vice grips on this one. Note the tube fitting on this one is welded to the tube. That is why you have to disconnected the bottom first. You can now disconnect the white ring. Hammer and Screwdriver is needed...	Here is the pump assembly. I had the 150L pump in there.	I was amazed to see the Supra Pump is almost the exact same size as the 150L pump.
Here is another comparison shot.	Added the Supra pump.	After putting everything back in, it is time to add the -6AN lines. The swivel straight -6AN fitting connects to the output tube from the tank.	Here is the line coming under the car.

This is inside the engine bay. where I ran the 8 foot length of -6AN stainless lines. The 8 foot piece has two straight -6AN fittings.	A closer shot of where the line comes through into the engine bay.	This is under the car at the near the engine bay. I followed the stock lines up.	Here is the AEM high flow fuel rail for the Eclipse. It has the -6AN into a 45 which goes into a 9/16-18 to -6AN into the AEM -6AN adapter. The output side has the 9/16-18 to -6AN 90.
Here is a picture of the stock rail with the stock injectors. Above the stock stuff is the AEM rail with 660 cc Denso injectors. You can also see the Mits part number for the injector head O'rings.	You can also see the AEM universal fuel regulator with an Autometer fuel pressure gauge added. It also has the 9/16-18 to -6AN adapter. A -6AN plug. On the bottom is has a -6AN to -4AN union, and a -4AN to 1/4 hose barb.	I added the Aeromotive fuel filter. I took some 1/4 inch rubber and secured it into the stock fuel filter bracket. I am test fitting the line to the fuel rail. It turned out to require a 13 inch piece of -6AN line.	Fuel rail is in place for test fitting the lines.
Here is the Universal fuel regulator connected to the fuel rail with a 3 inch piece of -6AN line. The length of lines do not include the length of the fittings.	The AEM fuel rail kit gives you new O'rings for the injectors. My 660 O'rings were in good condition, but I figure if they gave them to me, I should use them.	I am adding the 660cc injectors to the head.	securing the fuel rail into the stock location.
Another shot of the rail installed.	This is a better view of the rail and injectors in place.	You can see the fuel filter connected to the fuel rail with a 13 inch piece of -6AN line. It has a swivel straight -6AN fitting and a 45 deg -6AN on the fuel rail side.	This shows the output side of the fuel rail. It has the tight 90 with a 3 inch piece of -6AN going into a swivel straight -6AN into the fuel regulator. Make sure all your fitting are tight. Put the battery back in and you are ready to pressure test the system. After pressurizing the system, check for leaks at all your connections. If there are no leaks you are ready to check fuel pressure and go...

Return line: 29 inches of -6AN with 2 swivel 90's

Added some loom to protect the stock wiring and other parts in the engine compartment.

Ran a 90 from the bottom of the regulator to the outlet of the stock fuel feed line in the engine bay.

The fuel tank side (pictures later) Use a straight -6AN on both sides of a 10 inch piece of -6AN. Used a -6AN to -4AN union and the -4AN to 1/4 inch hose barb. ( I am looking for a -6AN to a 5/16 hose barb)

Parts List:

AEM fuel rail (P/N 25-130)

AEM -6AN fuel rail ends (P/N 25-391)

AEM universal fuel pressure regulator (P/N 25-302)

Autometer 0-100 psi fuel gauge (P/N ATM-2180)

Toyota Supra Twin Turbo Fuel Pump (P/N 23221-46110)

Fuel Pump Screen (P/N 23217-46101)

Aeromotive Fuel filter 10 micron (P/N AEI-12301)

(2) Aeromotive -10AN to -6AN union (P/N AEI-15609)

(2) -10AN O'rings

8 feet -6AN stainless braided line (you can use 10ft if you cut well) (P/N 410006ERL)

13 inches -6AN stainless braided line

3 inches -6AN stainless braided line

(4) -6AN straight swivel hose ends (P/N 800106ERL)

45 deg. -6AN swivel hose end (P/N 804606ERL)

(2) 9/16-18 O'ring to -6AN adapter (For the AEM fuel rail and regulator) (P/N 985006ERL)

9/16-18 O'ring to -6AN tight 90 deg. (You Must have this one! trust me... a tube 90 will not fit) (P/N 849006ERL)

-6AN plug (For the extra input port on the AEM fuel pressure regulator) (581406EAR)

(2) 2pks of the crush washer O'ring combo (required for the AEM rail and regulator) (P/N 178009ERL)

Cable ties or clamps to secure the -6AN line under the car.

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Return Line Parts List:

(2) 90 deg -6AN swivel hose ends

29 inches -6AN stainless braided line

(2) -6AN straight swivel hose ends (P/N 800106ERL)

10 inches -6AN stainless braided line

-6AN to -4AN union reducer(For the bottom of the AEM fuel pressure regulator output) (P/N FCM2156)

-4AN to 1/4 inch hose barb (return line connector) (P/N 700145ERL)

Pack of 3/4 inch wire loom

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NOTE: The AEM universal fuel pressure regulator comes with the black port (.100 ID) That port is

too small for a rewired Supra pump. I am seeing 52 psi fuel pressure at idle. I am going to try and switch

it with their Gold port (.200 ID) to see if I can get base pressure down to 42 psi.

UPDATE: I put in the silver port (.150 ID) it dropped my base pressure down to 46psi with no ability

to lower it beyond that. I have now installed the gold port (.200 ID) That ID is larger then the -4AN

barb fitting under the regulator going into the stock line. My base pressure has dropped to 42-43 psi and

will not go any lower. That now means that my stock return line is not large enough to bleed off the

extra fuel. I am going to start checking into other options, like running a -6AN line from the regulator

to the stock 1/4 inch feed line. Use the stock feed line back to the tank and run a line to the return

inlet.

UPDATE: I added a -6AN line from the bottom of the regulator to the stock feed line. Connected the

stock feed line to the return port at the fuel tank with another -6AN line to the -6AN to -4AN union

and to the -4AN to 1/4 hose barb. Simply put... I could lower the fuel pressure to well below 40psi.

That tells me that my stock fuel return line had some kind of a problem. That may be why I was

having fuel issue at idle prior to my fuel upgrade. I will add parts list below -sg